Kei Tutorial: Make a basic Round-neck

To even begin your sewing skills, it is always best to know the basics. So let me orient you with the appetizers, before we get to the main dish.

 

Make a basic round-neck (R/N):

This is the most basic piece of garment you’ll ever wear. It can be worn outside if you want it simple and it can be also worn inside the house. Since it is often worn most, it is commonly made out of 100% cotton for that light and soft feel. To make one, its patterns are also very simple.

Here’s what you’ll need:

1) Fabrics

2) Shirt Pattern

3) Fabric scissors

4) Threads & a needle (or a sewing machine)

5) Bobby pins (lots of it)

STEP 1 – First we take your measurements. Refer to measurement guide below.

  • BUST. This is the chest width. Measure the circumference.
  • WAIST. First find your bellybutton. This will serve as your guide to measure all around your waist.
  • HIP. This should be about 6cm from below your bellybutton, before you measure all around your hip.
  • LENGTH. Find your Highest Point Shoulder (not the end of your shoulder). It is the bone that attaches your neck and shoulder bone, do not start at your shoulder blades. Always consider adding at least 2″inches at the end of your desired length, because this will be folded when we make the final touches.
  • SHOULDER WIDTH. From the right shoulder blade to the left shoulder blade.
  • NECK. From right-side neck bone to left-side neck bone, circumference. Here are different necklines:
  • SLEEVE. From your Highest Point of Shoulder again, to your desired sleeve length. Again consider adding at least 2″inches at the end, this will be folded when we make the final touches. Here are different sleeves:

STEP 2 – Basic Round-neck pattern. Once you have your measurements, apply them on the pattern accordingly. I have attached a template to show you in summary how the patterns should look. You may choose to trace them or download the image hereAn important note to all: this is how I do my patterns from what I learned in tutorials and training, this is nothing professional or accurate!

On the above drawing: The body (a) has a front and back template. You’ll notice the Back side has a higher neckline than the Front side. This is the standard pattern for all round-necks. It will only vary in length depending on your desired measurements. The neck collar (b) is normally made out of flat-knits. It is a different type of fabric that stretches more than cotton, to ensure your head perfectly fits into the neck-hole. The sleeves (c) also vary in length depending on your desired measurements.

STEP 3. Now you are ready to cut! Using the fabric scissors (or any big sharp scissors), cut away your fabric.

The purpose of the body pattern having both the front and back sides in one is very convenient for me. When I want to trace the front side, I just fold the pattern in half and trace it on the fabric on one side first. Then when I cut the fabric, I also fold the fabric in half (make sure you align them equally) and continue cutting the other half.

Before cutting the sleeves, make sure you fold your fabric first. Place the top of the pattern on the folded end, then trace. This is to save time  and energy. When you’re done cutting, you’ll notice that the sleeves are already folded!

Last piece is the neck collar. This should be approximately 3/4 height x Neck Width (based on your measurements). Giving a total of 1.5″ inches when folded.

STEP 4. Sew sew sew! If you know how to use your sewing machine, prep it up w/ a thread color the same as your fabric. Make sure your spool thread and bobbin thread is the same color too!

If you can’t use a sewing machine, we can always do this manually by learning “Basic stitches“. So get your threads and needle ready~~ let’s sew sew sew!

Important note: If your fabric has a wrong and right side, we will be sewing on the “Wrong side” of the fabric. Most cottons don’t have any wrong side, since they are magically sewn and combed at the same wavelength. But you can tell the difference by comparing each side carefully. Usually the rough surface is the wrong side, so be aware.

Start by attaching the shoulder parts, front and back aligned together using bobby pins. Leave at least 1/4 – 1/2 sewing allowance. Do not sew the sides yet!

Then using your bobby pins, attach the sleeves starting at the fold most part of the sleeve to the tip of the shoulder blade’s end.

Finally, sew the sleeves in place. Remove the bobby pins. Your shirt should look like this:

STEP 5. Cover it up! Next sew the sides. From the sleeves, all the way down to the shirt bottom length. Remember we are still on the wrong-side of the fabric! Leave at least 1/2” or 0.5” sewing allowance.

Do the same for the hem of the sleeves. I asked you to leave at least 2″ inches allowance when we were measuring, right? Here’s how to close our hems:

Do this same procedure for the bottom hem of the shirt. Also in 2″ sewing allowance. Turn your finished shirt inside out. We are now on the right-side of the fabric!

To add the neckline, take your collar and make the FIRST (1/4th inch) fold and ecure with single stitch. Make the SECOND fold in the half of your collar and fold it (1/4th inch) inwards.

Setting that aside, go back to your shirt and fold 1/4″ inch of your neckline. Now attach the collar to the edge of your shirt’s neckline by using bobby pins. Secure with a double stitch. Here’s how:

Trim any excess loose threads with scissors or a thread trimmer and.. YOU’RE DONE!

Easy right? I do not take credits for the procedure, but I illustrated everything else. You may share this tutorial with others, but please make sure you link it back to me.

So how does it look? I would love to see your works.

Gambette ne~~! *mhew*


2 thoughts on “Kei Tutorial: Make a basic Round-neck

  1. Cool!
    I wish I know how to sew T_T
    *Envy envy….

    How long did it take you to create 1 shirt or approximate? :D

    • Considering the time it takes me to measure & make the patterns can take me a day, provided I rest. Then I use the next day to sew everything up, that’s the fun part. It won’t take me more than 3 hours or so.

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